A fixative is a material that slows down how fast the rest of a perfume evaporates. Add one to a blend and the scent stays on skin longer and changes less between the first spray and the last hour. This guide covers the four fixatives people ask us about most (Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Galaxolide and Hedione), what each one does and how much to start with.
What a fixative does, and what it doesn't
Every material in a perfume evaporates at its own speed. Citrus and other top notes are gone within the hour. Florals and spices last a few hours. Woods, musks and ambers are still there the next day. A fixative is a slow material, usually from that last group, that holds the faster ones back as it evaporates.
That has limits. A fixative will not turn a lemon cologne into a scent that lasts all day, because lemon evaporates quickly whatever you add to it. It makes a noticeable difference to how long the heart and base notes stay on skin, and it smooths the transitions between them. If a blend fades too fast, add more base notes as well as a fixative.
Most modern fixatives also have a smell of their own. At a low dose you notice the effect more than the smell. Push the dose up and the fixative becomes part of the character of the perfume.
The four fixatives compared
| Material | Smell | Main job | Suggested starting point* |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ambroxan | Warm, musky, ambery, slightly mineral | Fixative and booster for the base | 1% to 5% |
| Iso E Super | Soft, dry, transparent wood | Fixative that adds a woody, skin-like floor | 5% to 20% |
| Galaxolide 50% IPM | Clean, powdery musk | Fixative for the base, adds a laundered warmth | 5% to 15% |
| Hedione | Airy, fresh, faintly jasmine | Diffusion: spreads the scent outward | 5% to 20% |
*Percentage of the fragrance concentrate, meaning the blend of oils before you dilute it into alcohol, DPG or a carrier oil. These are starting points for testing, not limits. Always check the IFRA certificate and the maximum usage table on each product page before you finalise a formula.
Ambroxan
Ambroxan is a synthetic material that recreates the smell of ambergris: warm, musky, a little salty and very long lasting. It is one reason many modern "skin scent" perfumes stay on clothes for days.
At around 1% of a blend, Ambroxan works as a fixative you barely notice. From about 3% to 5% it starts to warm and round out the base, and well above that it becomes the main smell of the perfume.
It is strong, so weigh it rather than counting drops, and make a 10% dilution first (1 g of Ambroxan in 9 g of your solvent), which is far easier to dose accurately in small batches. After adding it, let the perfume rest for at least a week before you judge the result. Ambroxan takes time to settle in.
Iso E Super
Iso E Super smells of soft, dry cedar-like wood with a velvety, almost transparent quality. Some people struggle to smell it at all on its own, then notice it straight away inside a blend. It is one of the most widely used materials in modern perfumery.
In a blend it fixes the composition and lays a woody floor under it that makes other notes feel fuller. It pairs well with florals, citrus, vetiver, sandalwood and amber.
Start around 5% of the concentrate and test upward. Because it is so quiet on its own, it is easy to overdose while looking for a smell, so judge it inside the blend, on skin, over a few hours.
Galaxolide 50% IPM
Galaxolide is a clean white musk, the kind of smell people associate with freshly washed laundry. Pure Galaxolide is extremely thick, so ours is supplied at 50% in isopropyl myristate (IPM), which keeps it pourable and easy to measure.
It anchors lighter materials and adds a soft, powdery warmth to the base, which makes it a natural partner for florals, fruity blends and anything described as "clean" or "fresh".
Remember that the product is already diluted by half. If a formula calls for 5% Galaxolide, use 10% of the 50% IPM version.
Hedione
Hedione is a diffusion material rather than a fixative, and people often buy it with the other three. It has a light, airy smell with a hint of jasmine that is faint on its own.
Inside a blend, Hedione helps the perfume spread further from the skin, so it reads as brighter and more open. A blend that feels flat or heavy often opens up with a few percent.
Start around 5% and increase in small steps. Many classic fresh perfumes use far more than that, so there is plenty of room to experiment.
Which one should I buy first?
If you want a perfume to last longer and you like warm scents, start with Ambroxan. For more depth without an obvious extra note, choose Iso E Super. Galaxolide suits fresh, floral and "clean" blends. If your blend smells nice close up but doesn't carry, add Hedione.
Many perfumers use two or three together. Ambroxan and Iso E Super in particular are a well known pairing.
Can I add a fixative to a perfume oil I already have?
Yes, with care. Mix a small test batch first: 10 g of your perfume oil with a small amount of your chosen fixative, starting at the low end of the ranges above. Label it, leave it for a week, then compare it on skin against the untreated oil. Fixatives change the smell as well as the longevity, so judge both.
Safety and IFRA limits
Every fragrance material has a maximum safe level for each type of product, set by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Those limits apply to the finished product, and they are different for a perfume, a body lotion or a candle. Our product pages list the maximum usage levels and link to the IFRA certificate and safety data sheet for each material. Check them for every ingredient in your formula, wear gloves when handling concentrated materials, and do a patch test before wearing a new perfume.
You can find all four materials, plus the diluents to go with them, in our perfume raw materials collection. If you are new to diluents, read our guide What is DPG in perfume? next.